If you are like many of us on the MiceChat team, you are completely engrossed in the Disney+ Marvel series, Loki. And what better way to pay tribute to the God of Mischief than to craft his traditional horned helmet? With this Loki helmet crochet pattern, you can make your beloved teddy bear, gator puppet, or other plush toy into a variant of the extraordinary shapeshifter.
A Few Notes Before We Start
If you are a Marvel fan AND you can crochet, this article is for you. If you don’t possess this skill, you might want to share with a friend who does.
The difficulty level for this pattern is advanced beginner to intermediate. You will need to know how to do the following techniques: chain, single crochet, slip stitch, increase by working 2 stitches in the same stitch, and decrease by single crocheting 2 stitches together, and making a ring (sometimes known as a “Magic Ring”).
Gauge is not important in this pattern but be sure to make the stitches tight on the horns or the stuffing will show through.
Abbreviations used
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- CH – chain
- SC – single crochet
- SLST – slip stitch
- SC2TOG – decrease by single crocheting 2 stitches together
- INC – increase by working 2 stitches in the same stitch
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Materials Used
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- 1 skein of KnitPicks Brava in Canary or other Yellow Bulky Weight Yarn
- H (5mm) hook
- Polyester fiberfill for horns
- Yarn needle
- 2 locking stitch markers
About yarn weight and hook size: you can use a lighter weight yarn for use on a smaller plush, just use a hook three sizes smaller than the lowest suggested size for the weight (you’ll typically find it on the yarn’s label).
For reference, the helmet I made was a little over 3 inches wide and fit rather nicely on this Folkmanis American Alligator hand puppet, whose head is about 4 inches wide across the top.
Pattern for Horns
Make 2. These pieces will be crocheted in the round.
Round 1: CH 14, then SLST in first SC in chain to join (make sure the chain is not twisted), place stitch marker at end of round. Move marker with each round. (14 stitches)
Round 2: SC around (14 stitches)
Round 3: SC 12 then SC2TOG (13 stitches)
Round 4 and 5: SC around (13 stitches)
Round 6: SC11 then SC2TOG (12 stitches)
Round 7: SC around (12 stitches)
Round 8: SC2TOG, SC4, INC, SC3, SC2TOG (11 stitches)
Round 9 and 10: SC around (11 stitches)
Round 11: SC2TOG, SC3, INC, SC3, SC2TOG (10 stitches)
Round 12: SC around (10 stitches)
Round 13: SC2TOG, SC2, INC, SC1, SC2TOG twice (8 stitches)
Round 14: SC2TOG, SC1, INC, SC2TOG twice (6 stitches)
Round 15: SC2TOG three times (3 stitches)
Round 16: SC three times. (3 stitches)
Pull yarn through and weave in end. Don’t weave in the tail because it can be used to help sew to the helmet (you can use additional yarn if the length is not sufficient).
Stuff the horn with polyester fiberfill. You can use a pen with the cap on or the bottom end of your crochet hook to force the fiberfill into the space if you are having difficulty. Make sure you do not overstuff the horn with fiberfill or it not look right.
Pattern for Helmet Base
Like the horns, this piece will be crocheted in the round.
Round 1: make a ring, SC 6 into ring and pull closed. Place stitch marker at the end of the round. Move marker at the end of each round. (6 stitches)
Round 2: CH1. INC six times. SLST when you get to the CH1 at the beginning of the round. This is past the initial stitch marker location, move stitch marker to this new spot after stitch is completed. (13 stitches)
Round 3: CH1. *SC then INC* six times, then SLST. (20 stitches)
Round 1: make a ring, SC 6 into ring and pull closed. Place stitch marker at the end of the round. Move marker at the end of each round. (6 stitches)
Round 2: CH1. INC six times. SLST when you get to the CH1 at the beginning of the round. This is past the initial stitch marker location, move stitch marker to this new spot after stitch is completed. (13 stitches)
Round 3: CH1. *SC then INC* six times, then SLST.(20 stitches)
Round 4: CH1. SC, INC, SC6, INC, SC2, INC, SC6, INC then SLST. (25 stitches)
Round 5: CH1, SC2, INC twice, SLST5, INC twice, SC3, INC twice, SLST4, INC twice, SC2, SLST. (34 stitches)
Round 6: SC around. (34 stitches)
Round 7: SC around until last stitch, SLST. (34 stitches)
Tie off and weave in loose ends.
Pattern for Straps
Make 2. The straps are worked flat, not made in the round.
The straps are made a bit differently. The length of the row is not a set number but rather however long enough it is to create a strap that can be securely tied under the plush’s head. That will the length of the head plus an additional 5 inches or so.
Row 1: CH as many stitches as needed (see previous paragraph) then CH1, turn
Row 2: SLST in second CH from the hook, then SLST in each CH across.
Cut yarn leaving a very long tail and pull through. Do not weave in ends.
If you underestimated the length you needed, don’t fret. you can add on additional inches by picking up a stitch at the very end of the strap and the single crocheting until you are satisfied with the length. You will need to weave in those ends as well.
Assembling the Helmet
First, decide where you want to attach your straps. Mark the each side with the stitch markers to get a better idea of the alignment before stitching the pieces together.
Next, sew the straps to the areas you chose using the pieces’ long tails and ends. If you use all of the tail and end and still feel it is not secure enough, you can also use additional yarn to reinforce it.
Now, sew on the horns. I placed them closer the edge of the helmet rather than the center but you can always change the arrangement to however you wish.
And that’s it! Give it a try on your favorite plush pal!
[One last note: I did beta-test each piece of this pattern but if you spot some error, please do mention it in the comments and I will do my best to correct them and/or help with any issues. Thank you!]
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Let’s Hear from You
Are you taking a crack at this Loki helmet pattern? What toy do you plan on making it for? And have you been enjoying the Disney+ Loki series? Let us know in the comments below!